HOUSEBREAKING YOUR NEW PUPPY
Housebreaking is a major consideration for most dog owners. A dog that is not housebroken can be very destructive and may well end up at the local animal shelter or live its life very confined and not as a part of the family as it should.
The three basic elements of successful housebreaking are an understand of the instinctive and biological behaviors of dogs, timing, and equipment. You must recognize the importance of these three elements, and alter you lifestyle sufficiently to ensure success in housebreaking.
TIMING:
There are certain times when a puppy must eliminate, and it is imperative that the person in charge of housebreaking be available at each of those times. Puppies must go outdoors:
1. AFTER SLEEP. Puppies wake up, go away from the sleeping area, and squat.
2. AFTER PLAY. Active play can trigger the need to eliminate. Puppies may also stop in the middle of play to eliminate.
3. AFTER EATING. Puppies will need to go outside a few minutes after eating or drinking.
LOCATION:
Location can provide another cue for your puppy to try to eliminate.
1. TERRITORY. Dogs mark the boundaries of their territory with the urine and feces. It is important to realize that the boundaries that the dog recognizes may be different from yours. If your puppy uses the floor of the extra bedroom, he obviously thinks that is the edge of his territory, and he's posting a "NO Trespassing" sign.
2. ODOR. If any odor is left in the place where the puppy has had an accident, it will use that location again and again. The best odor remover we have found is white vinegar and water. It will help remove the stain and the odor. Immediately take a clean white towel and sop (not rub) the spot over and over until you get no more spots on the towel. Then take a mixture of vinegar and water to clean the area.
3. HABIT. Puppies tend to return to the same spot, time after time. Therefore, careful watch on your puppy while it is roaming is a must.
EQUIPMENT:
Some of the suggested equipment is very inexpensive, some could be considered a major investment, but it can help prevent damage to your house. All of the following equipment has multiple uses, not just housebreaking, and should probably be part of your dog equipment anyway.
1. LEASH. If you use a very lightweight leash indoors, you can keep your puppy close to you so that:
(a) you will be more likely to notice if your puppy is getting restless and
(b) after your puppy begs to get the idea about the housebreaking, it will be more likely to "ask" to go out instead of taking off for an isolated area of your house.
2. CRATE. Because there are many normal things that you must do at home that you cannot do with a puppy in tow, a crate is a very important item you should consider. A puppy will not eliminate in its own sleeping area unless it has absolutely no choice. A properly sized crate, large enough for the puppy to lie down and stand up comfortably but no larger, will encourage your pup to announce that it needs to go outside. A create is also useful as a bed at home, as a means of maintaining proper behavior when traveling, or in confining an injured or sick dog or a female in heat. We use crates in our home also for safety reasons. At night or if we leave the house, the dogs are put in their crates so if there is a fire, we know exactly where they are.
3. OTHER. You will need to consider the design of our house and other factors to determine if you will need any additional equipment.
The following suggestions may help you in housebreaking your puppy:
Remember that young puppies do not have much control. Help your puppy by understanding its needs, establishing a feeding/watering/walking schedule, and learning to observe and correctly interpret its behavior.
Do not free-feed your puppy. Feed your puppy according to a schedule, depending on its age, and remove leftover food until the next scheduled feeding time. Take the puppy outdoors to eliminate after each feeding time.
When it is time for a trip outdoors, put the leash on the puppy and lead it to the door (using the same door each and every time), while saying a phrase such as, "Do you want to go outside?" Use the same phrase, in the same tone of voice, each time. Your pup will soon begin to go to that door when it needs to go out, and it will begin to respond to the phrase.
Select the place outdoots where you want your
puppy to eliminate, and always take your puppy directly to that spot. Do not walk
your puppy endlessly. Take your puppy, on leash, to your selected location and stand
there until you get the results you want, then praise the puppy. While the 
puppy is sniffing you may
tell him/her to "go potty", again in the same tone each time. If you
want to take your puppy for a walk for exercise, do it immediately after a successful
housebreaking trip, not before or during.
Keep the same schedule every day of the week, even if you work during the week and are off on the weekends. It's not fair to walk your pup early in the morning for the five and then expect it to wait several hours later on weekends.
Limit your puppy's area. Use a crate, a leash (even indoors--it really helps!), close doors, installing baby gates, or whatever combination of methods you think will work for you, but keep the puppy confined or within your sight every minute.
Take your puppy outside after every feeding, after it wakes up from sleep, after (or during) play, and any other time it starts sniffing and/or acting restless. Watching its behavior is extremely important and understanding what it is doing is critical.
Go outdoors with your puppy each time, even if your yard is fenced. It is important to praise your puppy for eliminating in the spot you have chosen, and you can't do that if you are inside.
Be on time for meals/water/walks, even if you have to enlist the assistance of a friend, neighbor, or relative.
Your puppy will attempt to return to the same spot every time, so if you are vigilant at first and prevent accidents, your puppy will soon begin to "ask" to go out.
If your puppy has had an accident, use vinegar and water to clean the spot, then keep the puppy away from that spot.
If you change your puppy's diet, do not change it abruptly, as this may cause diarrhea. On the first two days, each meal should consist of 75% of the old brand of food and 25% of the new brand of food; the third and fourth days feed 50% old brand and 50% new brand; on the fifth and sixth days, feed 25% old and 75% new; after that eliminate the old brand entirely from the puppy's diet.
GRADUALLY extend the time between meals/walks. Don't abruptly go from every three hours to every six hours. On the other hand, don't get "stuck" in a three-hour schedule for too long. Your dog will become so accustomed to it that it may be nearly impossible to extend the time. Learn to watch your dog for indications that it may be ready to wait a little longer, then do it.
Avoid boarding your puppy during the critical early housebreaking stage. Even adult dogs may experience some difficulties caused by changes in feeding and walking schedules.
NEVER rub your puppy's nose in an
accident!
If you are willing to follow these guidelines and adapt your schedule accordingly, it is entirely possible that you can successfully housebreak your puppy without a single accident. It has been done.
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